2024 J.L. Chave Selection “Offerus,” Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhone, France

Deep purple, almost opaque at the core. Cracked black pepper comes first, then blackberry, cassis, violet, and a graphite note from the granite. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, with firm young tannins and a dark-fruited middle.The Chave family has made wine in the Rhône since 1481, sixteen generations. They farmed only in Saint-Joseph until phylloxera swept through the region about a century ago, when they moved to Hermitage. Offerus is Jean-Louis Chave’s return to those roots. He has spent years rebuilding the abandoned terraces above Mauves, and as that estate fruit comes online, the share of bought-in grapes in Offerus keeps shrinking. More than 80% of the blend comes from Mauves, Tournon, and Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, which bring tannin, spice, and power.