The Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards, which includes 30% whole bunch fruit, has a crisp blackberry, briary and slate-scented nose that is focused and well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe tannin, well-judged acidity and quite a firm grip suggesting that this is a Volnay that deserves cellaring. There is good substance here and what it might lack in refinement, it compensates with vigor and length. Drink now through 2030.