2018 Bodegas Ordoñez “Vatan,” Toro, Spain

Bodegas Ordóñez takes advantage of its unique Ruedan terroir to produce wine from its ungrafted vineyards, the oldest of which was planted in 1885. Their philosophy is to age all wines sur lie and barrel fermented in both stainless steel and large format wood, mostly used French oak. The 2018 Vatan shows a fresher, brighter style, with plenty of blue fruits, peppery herbs, graphite, and chalky minerality. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has good acidity, a focused, elegant mouthfeel, and outstanding length. It should impress for at least a decade.