2025 Bisson Glera Frizzante, Veneto, Italy

Pale straw with green reflections and a soft, fine bead. The nose shows acacia honey, white blossom, Meyer lemon, crunchy green apple and tart nectarine. The palate is light-bodied and racy, with a creamy mousse over a thread of stony minerality. The finish is clean and citrus-bright.

Pierluigi Lugano made his name farming native grapes on Liguria's cliffside vineyards above the Mediterranean. For his Glera, he went to a friend: Eli Spagnol of Tenuta Torre Zecchei, a 30-hectare family estate in Valdobbiadene, the steep hill heartland of Prosecco. The fruit is hand-picked from slopes too steep for machines and bottled with 2 grams per liter of residual sugar. That makes it drier than almost anything sold as Prosecco. The crown cap keeps "Prosecco" off the label, and Lugano is happy to let the wine speak as Glera. The 2025 Valdobbiadene harvest gave lower-sugar, aromatic fruit, which suits this bone-dry style.