2024 Domaine Thevenet et Fils Mâcon Pierreclos Blanc, Burgundy, France

Pale lemon-gold. Aromas of green apple, lemon zest, pear and white flowers lead to almond and a chalky, limestone edge. The palate is medium-bodied and taut, with crisp orchard fruit, a touch of white peach and a rounded texture from time on the lees. The finish is long and saline.

This is a vintage the Mâconnais barely made. Three nights of hard frost in early April 2021 destroyed most of the region's Chardonnay. What survived ripened slowly through a cool, wet summer and made high-acid, classically built whites of a kind the warm Mâcon years rarely produce. The fruit comes from four Pierreclos parcels averaging 45 years of age. The wine is raised in tank on fine lees with no oak at all, so the site and the vintage come through clearly. The Thevenets have also run a vine nursery for three generations, supplying planting stock to domaines across Burgundy and Champagne.