2023 Hubert Lamy Chassagne Montrachet "La Goujonne" Burgundy, France

Pale-to-medium ruby, translucent at the rim, a color built on low extraction, visible before you even get to the nose. The nose is cranberry and crushed strawberry first, then violet and a savory spice note that reads almost as black pepper, a signature of the 80% whole-cluster fermentation.

La Goujonne is the outlier in the range,  an old-vine Pinot Noir lieu-dit in Chassagne-Montrachet where that same obsessive, low-yield, fruit-quality-first philosophy gets pointed at red winemaking, with heavy whole-cluster use standing in for the high-density trick as the tool doing the work.