2021 Guillaume Gilles Cornas, France

The nose opens on blood and iron, then mulled raspberry, dried garrigue herbs, licorice, and a flint-and-struck-match minerality straight off the granite. On the palate, fresh red fruit runs against live, unresolved tannin, narrowing into a rocky, gunflint stretch on the finish. Guillaume Gilles trained under Jean-Louis Chave at Hermitage — as good a pedigree as the Rhône hands out — before working alongside Robert Michel, one of the handful of growers who kept Cornas' reputation alive when the appellation was written off as rustic and second-tier.